Where in the last few years this wine showed rich and powerful aromatics, now elegance, refinement and authority are key words. Again, a purity of flavours is overarching a base layer of savoury components. The gentle scent of harakeke in flower, Nashi pear and exotic tropical aromas like papaya and guava are combined with butterscotch and vanilla custard.
Like the Gewurztraminer the Pinot gris is less sweet than previous years with 20 g/L residual sugar. Without a doubt this has an impact on the perception of the wine and interaction with the phenolics. With less distraction at the entrance of the palate the focus rapidly turns to the texture and weight of the wine, round and buoyant. There is no clear division of taste, but a complexity that knows no boundaries or demarcations. Of recognisable interest are pistachio nuts, nougat and vanilla liqueur, further heightened with raisin pinwheels. Those familiar with it might recognise the traditional German amalgamation of fruit compote Rumtopf, without the excessive alcohol. The acidity acts as a faithful servant, maintaining freshness and length. We praise this wine for its early approachability, but it will certainly gain further interest over the next five to seven years.
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